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The Laced Edge: A Dive into the History and Competitive Field of South Shore Bar Pizza
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The Laced Edge: A Dive into the History and Competitive Field of South Shore Bar Pizza

The Bracket, 64 South Shore Bar Pizza places

South Shore Bar Pizza (SSBP) is a regional anomaly that has skyrocketed from a guarded local secret to a national culinary sensation. It is not merely a type of pizza, but a proud blue-collar culinary tradition rooted in the pubs, taverns, and dive bars of the communities located south of Boston. There is no pizza in the world quite like it.

The Industrial Crucible: Birthplace and Blueprint

The history of SSBP is inextricably linked to the industrial geography of Southeastern Massachusetts.

Origins in Brockton: The story begins in Brockton, Massachusetts, known historically as the “Shoe City,” in the late 1930s and 1940s. Factory workers, after 10 to 12-hour shifts, needed cheap, filling food and cold beer. The widely accepted originator is the Cape Cod Cafe in Brockton, established in 1939 and purchased in 1947 by E. James “Papa” Jamoulis. Jamoulis is credited with commercializing the specific 10-inch pan recipe.

The Trolley Corridor: The style did not spread randomly but followed the transit lines of the working class. It migrated north from Brockton to Quincy along Routes 37, 28, and 18—the corridors used by electric trolley lines that connected the shoe factories of Brockton to the shipyards of Quincy. This transportation corridor established many of the region’s great bar pizza joints.

The Geographic Boundary: SSBP is defined by its physical boundary, which is the Neponset River. The mighty Neponset separates Boston from the South Shore, both physically and culturally, and locals joke that “north of the Neponset you find only lepers, dragons, and roast beef sandwiches”.

The Strict Rules of the Steel Pan

To be considered authentic, a pie must adhere to a strict set of physical and mechanical parameters:

• The Vessel: SSBP is ALWAYS cooked in a small steel pan. The pan acts as a flavor-retention device, with some spots using pans seasoned for 40 to 50 years. The cooking process involves the bottom of the crust frying in oil rather than purely baking.

• The Size and Rule: It is strictly a personal 10-inch pizza. The size was mandated by the fact that a bartender needed to slide it onto a small bar placemat between a pint of beer and the patron’s elbows. The unwritten but strictly enforced ritual is: “one man, one pizza”.

• The Crust: The crust is unique, characterized as stiff, cracker-like, or biscuit-like, possessing structural integrity and no flop.

• The Cheese: The pizza is made almost exclusively with good old American cheddar cheese. This choice was partially economic, as cheddar was cheaper than mozzarella in the post-WWII era, and partially cultural, as Greek immigrant cooks often used it.

The Laced Edge and Cultural Rituals

The most crucial identifying feature is the finished rim of the pie. The sauce and cheese are intentionally spread right to the edge of the pan.

• The Lacing: As the pie cooks, the cheese and sauce that bridge the gap between the dough and the steel pan caramelize into a dark, crispy, savory lattice. This phenomenon is called “laced” in the Randolph region (Lynwood) and “burnt edges” in the Stoughton region (Town Spa). Ordering your pie this way marks you as a true SSBP aficionado.

• The “Café” Misnomer: Many iconic bar pizza bars, like the Cape Cod Cafe, Lynwood Cafe, and Home Cafe, are called “cafés” despite serving no coffee, only cheap booze and delicious bar pie.

• Takeout: When ordered to-go, SSBP traditionally comes cocooned between two round cardboard plates and wrapped in a brown paper bag, a necessity-driven tradition as barrooms often lacked room for stacks of clunky cardboard boxes.

• Regional Specialties: Hyper-local sub-styles exist, notably the Randolph-style Bean Special (pizza topped with Boston baked beans, salami, and onions) found at places like Lynwood Cafe and Hoey’s.

In the contemporary era, the SSBP tradition remains strong, popularized by organizations like the South Shore Bar Pizza Social Club (launched in 2020), which has thousands of members dedicated to promoting the style’s history and helping local bars survive.

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The South Shore Bar Pizza Championship Bracket

The fierce loyalty and competitive landscape of this unique regional cuisine demand a formal tournament. Drawing on historical significance, critical acclaim (including Dave Portnoy’s “One Bite” reviews, which often reorder the hierarchy of these spots), and community consensus, we have curated the definitive 64-team March Madness-style bracket.

This tournament pits the historical originators (The Heavyweights) against the core masters (The Randolph Region), the coastal challengers (The Shore), and the upstart innovators (The Frontier).

Here is the final, rigorously vetted 64-establishment field, organized into four competitive regions:

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REGION 1: THE RANDOLPH REGION (The Core)

This region is the ancestral Vatican of bar pizza, home to the three biggest names.

1. Lynwood Cafe, Randolph (The undisputed king; famous for the “Bean Special”—baked beans, salami, and onion—and known for its “laced” edges).

2. Town Spa Pizza, Stoughton (A legendary juggernaut since 1955, famous for its pickle pizza and being the site of Barstool’s first “One Bite” review).

3. Hoey’s Pizza, Randolph (The highly-praised “hidden gem” operating inside AmVets Post 51, using pans seasoned since the 1950s).

4. Crisp, Canton (The new-school standard-bearer, founded by a Venus Cafe alum and praised for “superbly burnt edges”).

5. Pleasant Cafe, Roslindale (A legacy institution, established in 1939, and a Phantom Gourmet “Great 8” honoree).

6. Bosss Bah Pizza, Braintree (Explicitly markets itself as “100% focused on South Shore Bar Style Pizza” and uses a 45-year recipe).

7. Bardo’s Bar Pizza, South Boston (The ambassador; infuses dough with Castle Island IPA and won Best Bar Pie in a 2022 readers poll).

8. Rag’s Tavern, Quincy (Classic dive, known for wrapping pies in a brown paper bag for takeout).

9. Alumni Cafe, Quincy (Preserves the historic “Quincy style” legacy, which closed in 2013 but was resurrected).

10. Lucky’s 777, Holbrook (Highly rated for crispiness and topping generosity).

11. Next Page Cafe, Weymouth (Consistently cited favorite; employs the original Alumni Cafe chef and received an 8.1/10 Portnoy rating).

12. Warren’s Place, Weymouth (A family-friendly tavern claiming the “Best Bar Style Pizza Anywhere”).

13. Hajjar’s, Weymouth (A serious contender in the Weymouth pizza scene).

14. Denly’s, Weymouth (Received an 8.1 Portnoy score, often featuring a thin crust and slight deviation with fresh mozzarella, though remaining in the category).

15. Coops, Quincy (A smaller, solid player in the Quincy tavern circuit).

16. Cronin’s Publick House, Quincy (Classic Irish pub entry following SSBP rules).

REGION 2: THE BROCKTON REGION (The Heavyweights)

The birthplace of SSBP, where the tradition of pairing the pizza with a Greek salad originated.

1. Cape Cod Cafe, Brockton (The Originator, claiming invention since 1947; ships nationally and is listed as the #2 seed by consensus).

2. O’Toole’s Pub, Whitman (The current darling, scoring 8.1 from Portnoy; famous for Pastrami and Pickle pizza).

3. Tin Ray’s, Brockton (The Dive King, known as a “napkin pizza” due to the oil; distinguished by a chewier crust).

4. Home Cafe, Brockton (The Insider; difficult to find, serves the aggressive “Burnt Edges” option on the menu).

5. Buddy’s Union Villa, Easton (Easton’s oldest bar since 1974; known for ordering pies “well done” for crispness).

6. Ultimate Pizza, Easton (A takeout-focused operation with “legit famous South Shore bar pizza”).

7. Tommy Doyle’s, Brockton (A classic Irish pub serving a heavy, substantial bar pie).

8. Samoset Rod & Gun Club, West Bridgewater (Corrected location; a hidden gem club, fitting the AmVets/VFW archetype, featured in SSBP news).

9. Lawadessa, W. Bridgewater (The Wildcard: a Lebanese restaurant that serves authentic SSBP).

10. Niko Bar & Grill, W. Bridgewater (Family-run with Greek roots and fresh ingredients).

11. Boston Tavern, W. Bridgewater (Known for “Pickle Ball Pizza”).

12. Harry’s Bar & Grill, Middleboro (A Middleboro circuit staple and community hub).

13. Central Cafe, Middleboro (The oldest cafe in town, operating over 100 years; visited by Portnoy).

14. Stoney’s Pub, Middleboro (A rugged, biker-friendly atmosphere with a hearty pizza).

15. Hideaway, Middleboro (A lesser-known local secret appearing on deep-dive lists).

16. Christo’s To Go, Whitman (The takeout spot keeping the original Christo’s Greek-style bar pizza legacy alive).

REGION 3: THE COASTAL REGION (The Shore)

The prestige region, famous for the “Murph” and long wait times.

1. Poopsie’s, Pembroke (The prestige pick, reigning South Shore Bar Pizza Champion (2021); known for the chili topping and long wait times).

2. Venus II, Marshfield (The beachside sequel; known for high volume and maintaining classic crust integrity, also offers dessert pizzas).

3. Squinny’s Pizza, Plymouth (The phoenix; utilizes the ovens from the legendary defunct Al’s Pizza; scored 7.9 from Portnoy).

4. Rafferty’s Pub, Marshfield (The local’s shield, where locals go to avoid the Venus II crowds).

5. Cabby Shack, Plymouth (The tourist spectacle; famous for the “Clam Chowder Pizza”).

6. Satuit Tavern, Scituate (Harbor institution serving a solid bar pizza).

7. Speedwell Tavern, Plymouth (Craft beer haven with excellent pizza and wings).

8. Charlie’s Place, Wareham (The Gateway to the Cape; scored a 7.9 from Portnoy).

9. Main St Sports, Plymouth (A downtown dive and standard-bearer for the genre).

10. West End Grille, Kingston (An Irish pub cited for its excellent linguica-and-cheese bar pie).

11. Jo’s Nautical Bar, Hull (The ultimate dive; cash only, kitschy décor).

12. Disch’s Route 53, Pembroke (Upscale tavern, high-quality ingredients).

13. Liberty Grille, Hingham (A polished spot serving the same recipe as Poopsie’s in a building dating to 1723).

14. Schooners, Hull (Views of the bay; pizza stands up to scrutiny).

15. Johnny Kono’s, Weymouth (NEW ENTRY: Famous for its heavily laced edges, strong SSBP vibes, and praised by multiple reviewers).

16. Black Raspberry Pub, Plymouth (Highly rated spot in historic Cordage Park; Barstool gave it a highly respectable 8/10).

REGION 4: THE FRONTIER REGION (The Expansion)

The widest-ranging region, featuring unique operations that push the boundaries of the SSBP geography and venue style.

1. Venus Cafe, Whitman (The Original Venus; the gold standard for the dive aesthetic, known as a “pillar of bar-pie culture”).

2. J’s Flying Pizza, Bridgewater (The Cult Favorite; a takeout-only operation literally in a residential garage since 1974).

3. Smitty’s Pub, Taunton (The Tang King; praised for a sauce that bites back and received a 7.8 from Portnoy).

4. 2 Jerks BBQ, Raynham (The Disruptor; a BBQ joint that wins local bar pizza taste-offs).

5. Spencer’s Pizza, Abington (The Clone; often compared directly to Lynwood for its crust profile).

6. Damien’s Pub, Hanson (Biker-friendly but family-welcoming staple, with a nearly windowless interior).

7. Riviera Cafe, Bridgewater (The Brewhouse; features 62 draft lines, serving pizza that acts as a perfect sponge for craft beers).

8. 550 Tavern, Halifax (Destination spot located on Monponsett Pond).

9. Sea Street Pizza, Weymouth (Explicitly markets itself as “So South Shore it’s an attitude” and SSBP style).

10. Hot Box, Somerville (The boundary pusher; combines SSBP with North Shore roast beef, noted for its crispy perfection).

11. Grove Street Tavern, Taunton (Strong local favorite cited in local forums for its cheddar-crust pies).

12. Lynch’s Tavern, Abington (Underrated dive bar noted for its blighted, nearly windowless building next to the train tracks, a classic SSBP venue).

13. Trading Post Lounge, Bourne (Recommended by the South Shore Bar Pizza Social Club, representing the Cape Cod Canal region).

14. Laced Pizza & Pub, Middleborough (Explicitly named for the crucial “laced” edge).

15. Geri’s Pizza Galore, Avon (Cited as a minor exception to the “bar-pizza-in-a-bar” rule, but serves “legit famous South Shore bar pizza”).

16. VFW Post 3169, Scituate (The Hidden Gem; hailed as a masterpiece of the form, served at a VFW open to the public).

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The ultimate South Shore Bar Pizza tournament is not about fancy ingredients or high-end dining; it’s about consistency, history, and adherence to the steel pan method. Each contender, from the dive bars of Brockton to the resurrected legacies of Quincy, must prove its commitment to the signature laced edge.

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